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Mark Bittman writes, in yesterday’s New York Times Travel Section, of his assessment of The Best Steak Frites in Paris. It isn’t, of course, only about the potatoes but about the steaks (or rib roasts or fried boneless pig’s feet) that go with, and justify, the frites. As a fairly avid carnivore myself, this is well worthy filing away as a reference for next time we go to Paris.